ENSURE YOU STAY DRY EVERY SEASON 

A SKI JACKET OR PANT THAT’S STARTING TO SOAK THROUGH ISN’T NECESSARILY WORN OUT, IT USUALLY JUST NEEDS PROPER CLEANING AND A FRESH WATER-REPELLENT TREATMENT. HERE’S HOW TO DO BOTH CORRECTLY, WITHOUT DAMAGING THE FABRIC OR THE MEMBRANE.

STEP 1: CHECK THE CARE LABEL FIRST

Before anything else, check the manufacturer’s care label. Fabric blends, membrane types, and insulation all affect the safest washing method, and the label always overrides general advice.

STEP 2: PREP THE JACKET
  • Close all zippers, velcro closures, and pockets to protect the fabric and the washing machine drum.
  • Turn the jacket inside out if it has visible printed graphics.
  • Remove any detachable fur trim, liners, or inserts.
[Women's Vida Jacket with removable faux fur trim] Zip it up, remove what detaches. A little prep before the wash keeps your jacket (and your washing machine) protected.
STEP 3: WASH IT PROPERLY
  • Use a technical cleaner, like Nikwax® or Grangers®, made for waterproof/breathable fabrics (avoid regular detergent as it can leave residue that blocks the membrane and kills water repellency).
  • Wash in a front-loading machine on a gentle, cold-to-warm cycle. Top-loaders with agitators can damage technical fabric.
  • Skip fabric softener entirely as it coats fibers and ruins both breathability and DWR performance.
  • Run an extra rinse cycle to fully clear out any soap residue.
Technical wash products for outerwear
Regular detergent leaves residue that blocks the membrane. A technical cleaner is built to wash without wrecking water repellency.
STEP 4: DRY IT THE RIGHT WAY
  • Tumble dry on low-to-medium heat, or air dry if the label recommends it.
  • Low heat from a dryer actually helps reactivate the existing DWR (durable water repellent) coating. It’s a genuinely useful step, not just a shortcut.
STEP 5: TEST THE WATER REPELLENCY

Once dry, splash a little water on the garment’s shoulder or sleeve.

  • Water beads and rolls off → the DWR coating is still working. You’re done.  
  • Water soaks in or darkens the fabric → it’s time to reapply DWR (this is called “wetting out,” and it doesn’t mean the jacket has lost its actual waterproof rating, just its surface repellency).
Water splashing on a Spyder garment to show waterproofing
This is the bead test in action. Water rolling off means the DWR coating is still doing its job.
STEP 6: REAPPLY DWR

Spray-on treatments are applied to a clean, damp jacket, then followed by tumble drying or ironing on low heat (no steam) to cure the coating.

Wash-in treatments are added directly to the wash cycle, coating the entire garment evenly.  A good option if you’re already washing the jacket.

Either way: Cover the entire outer shell, including seams and high-wear areas like shoulders (from backpack straps) and cuffs.  Always cure with heat afterward if the product calls for it. This step is what bonds the treatment to the fabric.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU DO THIS?
  • Wash: 1–2 times per season, or when visibly dirty. Over-washing isn’t necessary and can wear down fabric coatings faster.
  • Re-waterproof: Once the “bead test” fails, for a regular skier, that’s often once per season.
WHAT TO AVOID
  • Regular household detergent
  • Fabric softener or dryer sheets
  • Bleach
  • Ironing directly on graphics or reflective trim
  • Dry cleaning (solvents can strip technical coatings)
THE BOTTOM LINE

Most ski gear that seems to have “stopped being waterproof” simply need a proper wash and a fresh DWR treatment. A few minutes of maintenance once or twice a season keeps your Spyder ski jacket or pants performing through out the season.

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